Knoydart - the Last Wilderness
The Knoydart Peninsula is known as a last real wilderness in the UK. It is accessible via two routes - by a 16 mile walk through the mountains of Western Scotland, or via a small ferry trip from the port at Mallaig. Once you’re there - there is nothing to do, and it’s GLORIOUS.
Knoydart consists of a number of very small villages - the main one being Inverie. Inverie itself is essentially a few houses, a small shop and a pub so on first look it seems like there wouldn’t be much going on, but don’t be fooled. I arrived on a Friday evening and the village was buzzing - there were people everywhere. Locals and tourists were hanging out, drinking and enjoying a summer evening (disclosure - like most areas of the west of Scotland, the midges are wild).
The pub itself is called The Old Forge and is classed as the most remote pub in mainland UK. It is run by a Belgian hotelier and the food is sensational - they source the vast majority of ingredients from within 6 miles of the pub. I had scallops which were hand-dived from the sea loch in front of the village and Knoydart venison - shot on the local estate. They also brew their own beer which is a must try.
Where to stay
There are a number of rooms to rent on the peninsula, but my recommendation is the Long Beach campsite. Now full disclosure, if you like your comforts this is perhaps not for you, but if you’re happy to wash in the river and want to embrace the wilderness of Knoydart, it is the way to go. It is £5/person/night and serviced by a compost toilet. You can find yourself a pitch right by the sea and it is the perfect place to watch the sun go down in the summer. If you go down this route you should take everything you need for your stay with you - although there is a shop in the village it is small and being remote, supplies can be a little limited. Note - the campsite is around a 20 minute walk from the ferry terminal and loaded up with everything you need this can feel like a lot longer!
Where to eat
The pub for sure! It is more expensive than other options but definitely worth it for a treat.
Alternatively, there is a cracking restaurant a little hidden away in the village of Inverie. The Look Out is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and has a great menu including local seafood, fajitas and some amazing burgers.
Knoydart wood-fired pizza: This is a local take-away - pre-order essential!
Out with the village of Inverie there is an artisan coffee roaster and dining room in the village of Doune. This is further round the peninsula and walkable, albeit a few hours round trip.
What to do
So by design, there isn’t much to do here. But that’s the point. My three days consisted mostly of walking around, sitting by the fire, eating good food, fresh air, swimming, playing chess in the tent and watching the sun going down.
However - there are three big Munros (mountains over 3000ft) on the peninsula, all accessible from Inverie. They are not marked paths, so they are only suitable for experienced hillwalkers (map reading essential) but the views from them are supposed to be some of the best. More information on routes here
If you are not a big hillwalker, there are plenty of other local routes around the peninsula that can be completed in a few hours and is a great way to spend the day (personal recommendation is the walk to Folach Falls, and another towards Doune on the peninsula). You can start and finish in Inverie and be back in time for dinner - ideal.
Swimming - there are a number of great options fo swimming, the obvious one being the sea. However, be warned - it is cold!! Especially early in the year. An alternative is in the river on the Kilchoan Estate, especially if the weather is good. From the campsite it is around a ten minute walk away from the village - if you are there in the spring, walk to the end of the campsite (with the sea on your right). From here take a left turn along the path beside the river - this takes you through an area full of wildflowers and the bluebells are stunning. At the other side the Kilchoan Estate is across a small bridge. Take an immediate left through the metal gate and walk upstream - only a couple of minutes or so there are a number of pools perfect for swimming.
More Info: The foundation website has a wealth of information on all of the above here